"Can we stay here forever?" I asked Josh. "I don't mean in New Zealand, I mean right here, this exact spot." Our grinning was interrupted by the resident male Stitchbird buzzing past us in pursuit of an interloper. He had spent most of the morning making impressive displays and chasing off other males away from this prime spot, particularly away from his female who was busily nest building right in front of us. He has reason to worry, I suppose- female Stitchbirds are not known for their fidelity.
Tiri is just as fantastic as we remembered from our last trip two years ago. Greg, the resident Takahe who looks like an enormous blue chicken, was there to say hi. The outlook for these critically endangered birds is looking up, thanks mainly to predator-free enclaves like this island, where their complete fearlessness doesn't get them eaten.
Bellbirds and Tui are all over the place, with their eerie musical calls punctuated by sounds concerningly reminiscent of someone choking or of some heavy equipment jamming up. This only adds to the exotic-jungle feeling of the Tiri forests, which are full of prehistoric fern-trees and enormous rambling podacarps snaked with thick vines. We searched the thick canopies in vain for the Kokako, a strange grey bird that scrambles through trees like a monkey and sings like a church organ.
Still, not bad for our first day in New Zealand. And not to worry, we'll be back to Tiri.
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